{"id":773,"date":"2016-08-10T01:46:42","date_gmt":"2016-08-09T23:46:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=773"},"modified":"2016-08-10T15:48:50","modified_gmt":"2016-08-10T13:48:50","slug":"onon-_-jak-jsme-vyhrali","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=773","title":{"rendered":"Onon _ jak jsme vyhr\u00e1li"},"content":{"rendered":"

Onon je n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 \u0159eka na severov\u00fdchod\u011b od Ulaanbaataru. Asi 100 km od rusk\u00e9 hranice za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 nad step\u00ed p\u0159eva\u017eovat tajga. \u0158eka pramen\u00ed v hor\u00e1ch Chentej a k na\u0161emu t\u00e1bo\u0159en\u00ed nedaleko somonu (okresu) Bat\u0161iret u\u017e nab\u00edr\u00e1 takovou s\u00edlu, \u017ee koup\u00e1n\u00ed by mohlo b\u00fdt docela dobrodru\u017estv\u00edm. Na\u0161e chata, \u0159\u00edk\u00e1me j\u00ed ran\u010d, byla u pravostran\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku u \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Barch. V t\u00e9 se d\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b vykoupat a jsou v n\u00ed ryby, tak\u017ee ve\u010de\u0159i jsme si zpest\u0159ili sma\u017een\u00fdm pstrou\u017ekem.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>Tento most byl malinko adrenalinek, ale jinudy cesta nevedla, jedin\u011b zp\u00e1tky a vracet se, to my ve zvyku nem\u00e1me.<\/i><\/p>\n

Ka\u017ed\u00e9 plus m\u00e1 svoje m\u00ednus, tak\u017ee k t\u00e9 kr\u00e1se, klidu a pohod\u011b to m\u00ednus. Miliarda ap\u016fl kom\u00e1r\u016f. P\u0159es den p\u0159i r\u016fzn\u00fdch aktivit\u00e1ch a pohybu u vody celkem fajn, ale ve\u010der.<\/p>\n

Kdo to neza\u017eil ten to nepochop\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Jak u\u017e jsem psal, letos je nobvykle vlhk\u00fd rok. U\u017e od jara je v Mongolsku nadpr\u016fm\u011brn\u00fd po\u010det sr\u00e1\u017eek a tak je step, ba dokonce i pou\u0161\u0165 neobvykle zarostl\u00e1. Ve stepi vysokou tr\u00e1vou, v pou\u0161ti je travi\u010dka taky a tak p\u0159i pohledu do d\u00e1lky to vypad\u00e1, \u017ee je pou\u0161\u0165 zelen\u00e1, pokud samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nejste na p\u00edse\u010dn\u00e9 dun\u011b.<\/p>\n

No a tak jen mal\u00e1 proch\u00e1zka do okol\u00ed stanov\u00e1n\u00ed nebo srubu zvedne z tr\u00e1vy mrak kom\u00e1r\u016f a ti si v\u00e1s okam\u017eit\u011b vyhl\u00eddnou. My jsme tomu \u0159\u00edkali „nedobrovoln\u00e9 d\u00e1rcovstv\u00ed krve“.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nKytek je samoz\u0159ejm\u011b taky plno a v\u0161ude, bohu\u017eel je nedok\u00e1\u017eu v\u0161echny pojmenovat. My jsme to na geologick\u00e9 fakult\u011b tak podrobn\u011b neprob\u00edrali.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a>
\nNo a kdy\u017e jsme dojeli ke srubu tak jsme zjistili, \u017ee se nedostaneme ke kl\u00ed\u010d\u016fm. \u010cas byl pokro\u010dil\u00fd a Bilgee, ochr\u00e1nce kl\u00ed\u010d\u016f byl nedohledateln\u00fd. Tak jsme si ud\u011blali u srubu pohodl\u00ed a postavili jsme stany na terase srubu. To byl n\u00e1pad dobr\u00fd a pod st\u0159echou nebyla ani obava z hroz\u00edc\u00edho de\u0161t\u011b.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nN\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed den, p\u0159i cest\u011b k Ononu jsme kl\u00ed\u010de sh\u00e1n\u011bli, ale op\u011bt dost marn\u011b. No a nakonec jsme prost\u0159ednictv\u00edm jedn\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed rodiny a telefonu dohodli s Bilgeem, \u017ee ve\u010der doveze kl\u00ed\u010de ke srubu.<\/p>\n

Mongolsko je zem\u011b \u010dast\u00fdch p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed, tak\u017ee i tentokr\u00e1t, kdy\u017e jsme ke srubu doj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli v ur\u010den\u00fd \u010das, nev\u011b\u0159ili jsme vlastn\u00edm o\u010d\u00edm. U srubu st\u00e1la \u010dty\u0159i auta a na terase se veslilo asi tak dvacet Mongol\u016f v\u010detn\u011b d\u011bt\u00ed od prck\u016f sotva se batol\u00edc\u00edch a\u017e po pubert\u00e1ln\u00ed holky a kluky.<\/p>\n

Co te\u010f? Bilgee n\u00e1m sd\u011blil, \u017ee p\u0159ijeli p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00ed a\u017e z Austr\u00e1lie a \u017ee srub na dv\u011b noci pot\u0159ebuj\u00ed. Sanice n\u00e1m spadla n\u011bkam mezi prsa a pupek. Roz\u010dilovat se v Asii nem\u00e1 \u017e\u00e1dnou cenu a rovn\u00e1 se to spole\u010densk\u00e9 sebevra\u017ed\u011b. Tak\u017ee \u00fasm\u011bv, p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fd p\u0159\u00edpitek mongolskou vodkou Archi a vyposlechnout si cel\u00fd p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh a n\u00e1vrh.<\/p>\n

Asi t\u0159i kilometry proti proudu je dal\u0161\u00ed dome\u010dek a ten n\u00e1m nab\u00eddli jako protihodnotu. Bal\u00edme u\u017e vybalen\u00e9 v\u011bci a jedeme s pr\u016fvodcem k nov\u00e9mu domovu.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nChatka je p\u011bkn\u00e1, sice neza\u0159\u00edzen\u00e1, ale jsou zde dv\u011b postele a st\u016fl se \u010dty\u0159mi \u017eidlemi. Je nov\u00fd a von\u00ed d\u0159evem. Tr\u00e1my ru\u010dn\u011b opracovan\u00e9 a kadibudka. Kadibudka – prvn\u00ed cenov\u00e1.<\/p>\n

Jen\u017ee ve sp\u011bchu jsme nechali stany na srubu.<\/p>\n

Tak si p\u0159estavuju k\u0159i\u0161\u0165\u00e1lovou noc. \u0158\u00e1d\u011bn\u00ed vrah\u016f a vra\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed nevinn\u00fdch. Co jsme komu ud\u011blali. Dv\u011b hodiny sed\u00edm na posteli a zofale kolem sebe to\u010d\u00edm ru\u010dn\u00edkem. Marn\u011b, marn\u011b, marn\u011b. Z r\u016fzn\u00fdch kout\u016f m\u00edstnosti se ve tm\u011b ozyv\u00e1 \u0161um repelent\u016f v\u0161ech mo\u017en\u00fdch v\u00fdrobc\u016f. Pozor, mongolsk\u00fd kom\u00e1r je zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed plemeno. Na ka\u017ed\u00e9ho jin\u00e9ho p\u016fsob\u00ed repelent n\u011bkolik hodin, na mongolsk\u00e9ho patn\u00e1ct minut, max. A potom je tak na\u0161tvanej, \u017ee bod\u00e1 jako \u0161ic\u00ed stroj.<\/p>\n

To byla noc. R\u00e1no s opuchl\u00fdma o\u010dima naskakujeme do auta a jedeme ke srubu pro stany. U\u017e jsme to vymysleli \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Vysm\u00e1t\u00ed Mongolov\u00e9 celou noc p\u00e1lili kravsk\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de a d\u00fdm (mimochodem v\u016fbec n\u00e9 smradlav\u00fd, kr\u00e1vy \u017eerou jen ekologickou tr\u00e1vu) vesele kvitovali na\u0161i n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu. P\u0159i pohledu na odlo\u017een\u00e9 lahve n\u00e1m bylo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee je bol\u00ed hlava \u00fapln\u011b z n\u011bceho jin\u00e9ho. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

N\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed noc jsme v\u00edt\u011bzov\u00e9 my.<\/p>\n

Po ve\u010dern\u00ed pochoutce, pstruh s bramborem a kuku\u0159ic\u00ed jsme v m\u00edstnosti postavili stany. Na Jirku z\u016fstala jedna postel a stan se tam elegantn\u011b ve\u0161el. Na noc otev\u0159en\u00e9 dve\u0159e, okno a my jsme se p\u011bkn\u011b za\u0161ili do stanu a na bzu\u010d\u00edc\u00ed hejna kom\u00e1r\u016f jsme s odhalen\u00fdmi \u010d\u00e1stm\u00ed t\u011bla, nata\u017een\u00ed na spac\u00e1\u010dc\u00edch d\u011blali na kom\u00e1ry neslu\u0161n\u00e1 gesta. \u010clov\u011bk zv\u00edt\u011bzil nad p\u0159\u00edrodou \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Jirk\u016fv patetovan\u00fd postelostan.<\/i><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>J\u00e1 jsem spinkal pod schody, a Zuzka s Honzou naho\u0159e. V\u0161em, krom\u011b kom\u00e1r\u016f bylo fajn.<\/i><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Jen to ve\u010dern\u00ed pivko \u0161lo pon\u011bkud h\u016f\u0159 \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Onon je n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 \u0159eka na severov\u00fdchod\u011b od Ulaanbaataru. Asi 100 km od rusk\u00e9 hranice za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 nad step\u00ed p\u0159eva\u017eovat tajga. \u0158eka pramen\u00ed v hor\u00e1ch Chentej a k na\u0161emu t\u00e1bo\u0159en\u00ed nedaleko somonu (okresu) Bat\u0161iret u\u017e nab\u00edr\u00e1 takovou s\u00edlu, \u017ee koup\u00e1n\u00ed by mohlo b\u00fdt docela dobrodru\u017estv\u00edm. Na\u0161e chata, \u0159\u00edk\u00e1me j\u00ed ran\u010d, byla u pravostran\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtoku u \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Barch. …
Pokra\u010dovat ve\u00a0\u010dten\u00ed Onon _ jak jsme vyhr\u00e1li<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":784,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-773","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mongolsko_2016"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/773","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=773"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/773\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":791,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/773\/revisions\/791"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/784"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=773"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=773"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=773"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}