{"id":745,"date":"2016-07-25T04:56:03","date_gmt":"2016-07-25T02:56:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=745"},"modified":"2016-08-10T16:10:58","modified_gmt":"2016-08-10T14:10:58","slug":"chuvsgul-nuur_sladky-zakusek","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=745","title":{"rendered":"Cesta na CHUVSGUL NUUR"},"content":{"rendered":"

———Provedl jsem zm\u011bnu, nap\u0159ed cesta, potom samostatn\u011b jezero———<\/p>\n

Zuzka s Honzou p\u0159ilet\u011bli podle pl\u00e1nu a my jsme je podle pl\u00e1nu \u010dekali na leti\u0161ti. Pro Jirku to byl nov\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek, proto\u017ee od roku 2011, kdy jsme spolu z Mongolska odl\u00e9tali se, stejn\u011b jako mnoho jin\u00fdch v\u011bc\u00ed, leti\u0161t\u011b radik\u00e1ln\u011b zm\u011bnilo. A tak jsem j\u00e1 na  na\u0161e kamar\u00e1dy \u010dekal u v\u00fdchodu a Jirka si ud\u011blal exkurzi po leti\u0161ti.<\/p>\n

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\nV r\u00e1mci \u010dasov\u00e9 \u00faspory jsme sedli do p\u0159ipraven\u00e9ho auta a okam\u017eit\u011b vyfr\u010deli severn\u00edm sm\u011brem k jezeru. Jestli to bylo \u0159e\u0161en\u00ed spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 nebo ne se uk\u00e1\u017ee. Zuzka a Honza na rozd\u00edl od n\u00e1s mus\u00ed vyrovn\u00e1vat sedmi hodinov\u00fd \u010dasov\u00fd rozd\u00edl a dvoudenn\u00ed cesta letadlem Praha – Istanbul – Bishkek (prakticky cel\u00fd den po m\u011bst\u011b) – Ulaanbatar jim sil dvakr\u00e1t nep\u0159idala. Klobouk dol\u016f, vyrovn\u00e1vaj\u00ed se s t\u00edm velmi dob\u0159e.<\/p>\n

Podle n\u011bkter\u00fdch se d\u00e1 cesta Ulaanbaatar – Chuvsgul ud\u011blat za den, ano krom\u011b posledn\u00edch 30 km je dnes cesta asfaltovan\u00e1 a v dobr\u00e9m stavu. J\u00e1 tomu moc nev\u011b\u0159\u00edm, i kdy\u017e v\u00edm, \u017ee Mongolov\u00e9 dok\u00e1\u017e\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nemo\u017en\u00e9, hlavn\u011b kdy\u017e se jedn\u00e1 o cestov\u00e1n\u00ed. V tom jsme my Evropani fakt b\u00e9\u010dka. Oni jsou ale po generace ko\u010dovn\u00edci, tak\u017ee maj\u00ed prost\u011b ten pohyb v krvi.<\/p>\n

My jsme trasu rozd\u011blili na dva dny. U benzinky ve m\u011bst\u011b Erdenet, mimochodem dost velk\u00e9 pr\u016fmyslov\u00e9 m\u011bsto na m\u011bd\u011bn\u00e9m lo\u017eisku, kter\u00e9 objevili \u010deskosloven\u0161t\u00ed gelogov\u00e9 (mysl\u00edm to byla prvn\u00ed n\u00e1rodn\u00ed geologick\u00e1 expedice v 60-t\u00fdch ketech. Gregor m\u011b oprav\u00ed, pokud to nen\u00ed spr\u00e1vn\u011b), n\u00e1m usm\u011bvav\u00e1 baculat\u00e1 a dru\u017en\u00e1 Mongolka (obsluha) poradila a\u0165 jedeme a\u017e k m\u011bstu Bulgan a tam budou jurtov\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 kempy.<\/p>\n

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\nJe\u0161t\u011b jsme se zastavili u mal\u00e9ho, nov\u00e9ho lamaistick\u00e9ho kl\u00e1\u0161tera a podle star\u00fdch mongolsk\u00fdch zvyklost\u00ed tak\u00e9 u Ovoo, co\u017e jsou kamenn\u00e9 mohyly v pr\u016fsmyc\u00edch po cest\u011b. Mohylu mus\u00edte t\u0159ikr\u00e1t obej\u00edt ve sm\u011bru slunce (ve sm\u011bru hodinov\u00fdch ru\u010di\u010dek) a hodit na ni kameny, mince, jin\u00e9 d\u00e1rky mnohdy a\u017e neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b, vid\u011bli jsme krom\u011b berl\u00ed i funk\u010dn\u00ed prot\u00e9zu doln\u00ed kon\u010detiny. Fakt nekec\u00e1m \ud83d\ude42 asi u\u017e nebyla pot\u0159ebn\u00e1. T\u00edm si vypros\u00edte p\u0159\u00edze\u0148 lamaistick\u00fdch bo\u017estev na cestu.<\/p>\n

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\nN\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed modern\u00ed Mongolov\u00e9 to \u0159e\u0161\u00ed trojit\u00fdm zatrouben\u00edm z cesty, vid\u011bl jsem machry, kte\u0159\u00ed Ovoo objeli t\u0159ikr\u00e1t autem a vy\u0159\u00edzeno. Bo\u017estva p\u0159\u00edjmaj\u00ed jak\u00fdkoliv projev \u00facty \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

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\n\"\"<\/a>
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Pokra\u010dovali jsme k Bulganu, ale \u010das n\u00e1s za\u010dal malinko tla\u010dit. Kde je n\u011bjak\u00fd jurtov\u00fd t\u00e1bor? Kone\u010dn\u011b jak\u00e1si cedule. Je pot\u0159eba sjet z asfaltu a pokra\u010dovat po stepn\u00ed cest\u011b 9 km. My ale vid\u00edme jak\u00e9si chatky nedaleko. Rozhodli jsme se, \u017ee to zkus\u00edme. Na cest\u011b byl dome\u010dek-vr\u00e1tnice a vr\u00e1tn\u00e1 n\u00e1s pustila d\u00e1l. M\u011bla lehce nakoupeno, no ale je sobota a kumis je m\u00edrn\u011b alkoholick\u00fd \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Na\u0161li jsme \u0161\u00e9fa t\u00e1bora, byl evidentn\u011b rozestav\u011bn\u00fd, ale dohodli jsme se na chatce s dv\u011bma matracemi na zemi, stolkem se \u010dty\u0159mi \u017eidlemi a kam\u00ednky. Hned jsme dostali na p\u0159iv\u00edtanou \u00e1rul (tvrd\u00fd su\u0161en\u00fd tvaroh) a byli jsme pozv\u00e1ni do jurty majitele na \u010derstv\u00fd kumis (mongolsky ajrig, je to kva\u0161en\u00e9 kobyl\u00ed ml\u00e9ko). Neust\u00e1l\u00e9 dol\u00e9v\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159eru\u0161il majitel\u016fv pokyn rodin\u011b, „jde se dojit“. My jsme vyt\u00e1hli fo\u0165\u00e1ky a \u0161li taky.<\/p>\n

Dojen\u00ed kon\u00ed bylo docela zaj\u00edmav\u00e9. Kobyla nepust\u00ed ml\u00e9ko dokud si necucne h\u0159\u00edb\u011b. H\u0159\u00edbata jsou p\u0159iv\u00e1zan\u00e1 a tak kobyly nikam neute\u010dou. Postupn\u011b se odv\u00e1\u017ee h\u0159\u00edb\u011b, p\u0159ivede ke kobyle a syst\u00e9mem cucnout, podojit a malinko nechat pro mr\u0148ouse se doj\u00ed jedna kobyla za druhou. Voln\u00e1 h\u0159\u00edbata i m\u00e1mou potom odch\u00e1z\u00ed, ale n\u00e9 daleko. Byl jsem p\u0159ekvapen, kolik ml\u00e9ka se z jedn\u00e9 kobyly nadoj\u00ed. M\u00fdm odhadem 2 a\u017e 3 litry.<\/p>\n

Pove\u010de\u0159eli jsme uzenou rybu, kterou jsme koupili za mostem p\u0159es \u0159eku Orchon. Byla siln\u011b solen\u00e1. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed se na\u0161lo pivko.<\/p>\n

V noci n\u00e1s probudili, z\u0159ejm\u011b p\u016fvodn\u00ed n\u00e1jemn\u00edci chatky a poprosili o matraci na kter\u00e9 jsem, bohu\u017eel, zrovna spal. Tak jsem se p\u0159est\u011bhoval na karimatku na zem za Jirkou.<\/p>\n

Po sn\u00eddani jsme vyrazili d\u00e1l sm\u011br Meren, Chatgal a jezero Chuvsgul.<\/p>\n

My s Jirkou jsme udiveni nov\u00fdmi pohledy na step. To je\u0161t\u011b nezn\u00e1me. Po \u010dast\u00fdch a vydatn\u00fdch de\u0161t\u00edch je tr\u00e1va zelen\u00e1, \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e1 jako n\u011bkde v Polab\u00ed. \ud83d\ude42 A t\u011bch kytek. Cesta se \u010dasov\u011b docela prot\u00e1hla a to jsme kv\u016fli focen\u00ed zastavili fakt minim\u00e1ln\u011b.<\/p>\n

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\nJe\u0161t\u011b jsme odbo\u010dili, vyt\u00e1hli stolek a poob\u011bdvali u jednoho z p\u011bkn\u00fdch somon\u016f, to je okresn\u00ed centrum s obchodem, hotelem, po\u0161tou a nemocnic\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

———Provedl jsem zm\u011bnu, nap\u0159ed cesta, potom samostatn\u011b jezero——— Zuzka s Honzou p\u0159ilet\u011bli podle pl\u00e1nu a my jsme je podle pl\u00e1nu \u010dekali na leti\u0161ti. Pro Jirku to byl nov\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek, proto\u017ee od roku 2011, kdy jsme spolu z Mongolska odl\u00e9tali se, stejn\u011b jako mnoho jin\u00fdch v\u011bc\u00ed, leti\u0161t\u011b radik\u00e1ln\u011b zm\u011bnilo. A tak jsem j\u00e1 na  na\u0161e kamar\u00e1dy …
Pokra\u010dovat ve\u00a0\u010dten\u00ed Cesta na CHUVSGUL NUUR<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":743,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-745","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mongolsko_2016"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/745","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=745"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/745\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":792,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/745\/revisions\/792"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/743"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=745"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=745"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=745"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}