{"id":2412,"date":"2025-05-30T17:23:26","date_gmt":"2025-05-30T15:23:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=2412"},"modified":"2025-09-28T10:55:44","modified_gmt":"2025-09-28T08:55:44","slug":"1985-_-vylet-na-tereldz","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=2412","title":{"rendered":"1985 _ v\u00fdlet na Tereld\u017e"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Zase Ulaanbaatar, tentokr\u00e1t kancel\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce, n\u011bco nov\u00e9ho.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_1-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_1-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2432\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Po t\u0159ech \u00fa\u017easn\u00fdch a nezapomenuteln\u00fdch sez\u00f3n\u00e1ch v Laosu jsem se v roce 1985 vr\u00e1til do Mongolska. O Laosu si nap\u00ed\u0161eme n\u011bjak\u00e9 ucelen\u00e9 pov\u00edd\u00e1n\u00ed v n\u011bkter\u00fdch dal\u0161\u00edch kapitol\u00e1ch. Zpracov\u00e1v\u00e1m negativy a diapozitivy a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm co napsat, aby to bylo publikovateln\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To ale p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b, te\u010f pro\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me Mongolsko. Tak\u017ee v roce 1985 jsme byli skupina, kter\u00e1 m\u011bla zakon\u010dit n\u011bkolikalet\u00fd pr\u016fzkum na lo\u017eisku Ongon Chajrchan, lo\u017eisku wolframu. Na\u0161e parta m\u011bla zpracovat v\u00fdpo\u010det z\u00e1sob. Hromady a hromady podklad\u016f, prvn\u00ed vla\u0161tovky ve v\u00fdpo\u010detn\u00ed technice, v\u011bdeck\u00e9 kalkula\u010dky Texas Instrument a potom pr\u00e1ce a pr\u00e1ce na tabulk\u00e1ch. Pozor, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd Excel. Tabulky na \u010dtvere\u010dkovan\u00e9m pap\u00ed\u0159e a vypl\u0148ovat bu\u0148ky r\u016f\u010do. J\u00e1 s\u00e1m tomu dnes nem\u016f\u017eu uv\u011b\u0159it. T\u0159i kamar\u00e1di jsme dostali byt na nov\u00e9m s\u00eddli\u0161ti sm\u011brem k centru, \u0159\u00edkali jsme mu &#8222;Bre\u017en\u011bv\u00e1k&#8220;, proto\u017ee ho postavili Rusov\u00e9 a dal\u0161\u00ed dva z n\u00e1s bydleli na ji\u017en\u00edm p\u0159edm\u011bst\u00ed na takzvan\u00e9m devaten\u00e1ct\u00e9m mikrorajonu. Dnes se tato \u010d\u00e1st pova\u017euje za centrum m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_10.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"689\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_10-1024x689.jpg\" alt=\"bogdgegen1\" class=\"wp-image-2409\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nedaleko odtud je zimn\u00ed pal\u00e1c posledn\u00edho ch\u00e1na Mongol\u016f Bogdgeg\u00e9na. Je v n\u011bm dnes docela p\u011bkn\u00e9 muzeum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"689\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_11-1024x689.jpg\" alt=\"bogdgegen2\" class=\"wp-image-2397\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_11-1024x689.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_11-300x202.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_11-768x517.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_11-1536x1034.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_11.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ano je v tom c\u00edtit \u010d\u00ednsk\u00fd vliv. J\u00e1 v\u00edm, Mongolov\u00e9 by m\u011b nad\u00e1vali, ale je to tak trochu mal\u00fd Peking :-), hodn\u011b mal\u00fd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_9.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"721\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_9-1024x721.jpg\" alt=\"bogdgegen3\" class=\"wp-image-2396\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_9-1024x721.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_9-300x211.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_9-768x541.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_9-1536x1081.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_9.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>A pak u\u017e byl voln\u00fd prostor a v pozad\u00ed posv\u00e1tn\u00e1 hora Bogd Uul. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dnes? <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Dnes je zimn\u00ed pal\u00e1c utopen\u00fd v novostavb\u00e1ch, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd voln\u00fd prostor a mysl\u00edm, \u017ee v\u00fdhled je tak\u00e9 siln\u011b omezen. M\u00e1m pl\u00e1n. Letos to v\u0161echno zdokumentuji. Tady je to rok 1985, p\u011bt let pot\u00e9, co jsem do Mongolska poprv\u00e9 p\u0159ilet\u011bl a letos to u\u017e je 45 let. A to budete koukat. Ud\u011bl\u00e1me si srovn\u00e1vac\u00ed seri\u00e1l.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_2-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"tereldz1\" class=\"wp-image-2402\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_2-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_2-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_2-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_2-1536x1030.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_2.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Pr\u00e1ci nech\u00e1me bokem. V\u00fdpo\u010det z\u00e1sob nikoho zas tak moc nezaj\u00edm\u00e1, ale ano jsou i voln\u00e9 dny. N\u011bkde jsem u\u017e psal o v\u00fdznamn\u00e9m st\u00e1tn\u00edm sv\u00e1tku Naadam v \u010dervenci. Sv\u00e1tek je sv\u00e1tek, nepracuje nikdo, slav\u00ed se. Rodiny se sj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed a oslavuj\u00ed, v\u0161ichni se t\u011b\u0161\u00ed na z\u00e1pasn\u00edky, lukost\u0159elbu, ale hlavn\u011b na ko\u0148sk\u00e9 z\u00e1vody. No a my jsme ty t\u0159i sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed dny vyu\u017eili po sv\u00e9m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_3-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"tereldz2\" class=\"wp-image-2403\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_3-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_3-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_3-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_3-1536x1030.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_3.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Byli jsme \u010dty\u0159i, Honza, Honza, Lubo\u0161 a j\u00e1 \ud83d\ude42 P\u016fj\u010dili jsme si Avii valn\u00edk, stan a vyrazili na t\u0159i sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed dny za M\u011bsto (pro Mongoli je m\u011bsto s velk\u00fdm M v\u017edycky a jednozna\u010dn\u011b Ulaanbaatar) do kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 oblasti Tereld\u017e. Dnes je to chr\u00e1n\u011bn\u00e1 krajinn\u00e9 oblast, jestli nakonec ne rezervace Gorchi Tereld\u017e. Po zhruba 75 km jsme byli na m\u00edst\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jo a ten nejvtipn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed moment. Je\u0161t\u011b jsme si vyp\u016fj\u010dili lamin\u00e1tovou kanoe a dv\u011b p\u00e1dla. Kdo se spr\u00e1vn\u011b pt\u00e1 jestli jsme si vzali tak\u00e9 vesty a p\u0159ilby, tak odpov\u00edd\u00e1m, ne. Z dne\u0161n\u00edho pohledu a p\u0159i vzpom\u00ednce na to, co jsme za\u017eili mi naskakuje dodate\u010dn\u011b hus\u00ed k\u016f\u017ee. Je to s odstupem \u010dasu. Jsem trochu star\u0161\u00ed a opatrn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a jednodu\u0161e \u0159e\u010deno, tehdy jsme byli mlad\u00ed a nic n\u00e1s nemohlo zastavit kdy\u017e jsme n\u011bco takov\u00e9ho vymysleli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Te\u010f budu mo\u017en\u00e1 trochu v\u00edc ps\u00e1t, proto\u017ee to byly nezapomenuteln\u00e9 okam\u017eiky a bohu\u017eel t\u011bch fotografi\u00ed nen\u00ed zase a\u017e tak moc. Je jich ve srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s dne\u0161n\u00edmi mo\u017enostmi fakt hodn\u011b m\u00e1lo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Zav\u0159u o\u010di a m\u00e1m p\u0159ed sebou film, film o bl\u00e1zniv\u00e9m, ale kr\u00e1sn\u00e9m v\u00fdlet\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_4-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"tereldz3\" class=\"wp-image-2404\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_4-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_4-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_4-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_4-1536x1030.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_4.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p> Ve\u010der po p\u0159\u00edjezdu na m\u00edsto jsme zastanovali. P\u0159ipravili jsme si dobr\u00fd \u0161a\u0161lik a tak jak je v Mongolsku b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 a norm\u00e1ln\u00ed str\u00e1vili v dru\u017en\u00e9m pov\u00edd\u00e1n\u00ed o v\u0161em mo\u017en\u00e9m a\u017e do noci. Ve stepi nebyly televize, nebylo r\u00e1dio nikdo z n\u00e1s nem\u011bl pon\u011bt\u00ed o mobilech. Prost\u011b jen \u0161um\u011bn\u00ed \u0159eky a v\u00edtr ve v\u011btv\u00edch strom\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no jsme vyrazili na vodu s Honzou. Dva zku\u0161en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vod\u00e1ci. Zku\u0161en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed z na\u0161ich vod, \u010dili \u010desk\u00fdch a slovensk\u00fdch \u0159ek. Je to \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 a kr\u00e1sn\u00e9, kdy\u017e se vrh\u00e1te do dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed s t\u00edm, \u017ee v\u0161ak to um\u00edte. Kdy\u017e dojedete do c\u00edle k mostu na \u0159ece Tuule tak v\u00e1m dojde jak je neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e9, \u017ee jste to zvl\u00e1dli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_5-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"tereldz4\" class=\"wp-image-2405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_5-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_5-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_5-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_5-1536x1030.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_5.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Nased\u00e1me \u0161pic\u00ed proti proudu, tak jak to spr\u00e1vn\u011b m\u00e1 b\u00fdt, a vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme. A\u010d jsem nejrad\u011bji jezdil na pozici zad\u00e1ka, vzhledem k tomu, \u017ee Honza byl zku\u0161en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed sed\u00e1m na h\u00e1\u010dka. A d\u00edky m\u00fdm chyb\u00e1m jsme se dvakr\u00e1t \u010dochtli a nebyla to v\u016fbec \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 sranda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_6.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_6-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"tereldz5\" class=\"wp-image-2406\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Jednou z\u00e1sadn\u00ed v\u00fdhodou bylo, \u017ee jsme sed\u011bli oba na sv\u00e9 stran\u011b. \u010cili, j\u00e1 lev\u00e1k a Honza prav\u00e1k.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nem\u011bli jsme \u017e\u00e1dnou p\u0159edstavu o d\u00e9lce \u0159eky. Nem\u011bli jsme \u017e\u00e1dnou p\u0159edstavu o jej\u00edch z\u00e1ludnostech a trouf\u00e1m si \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee jsme byli prvn\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed to na \u0159\u00ed\u010dce Tereld\u017e Gol, pro n\u00e1s Tereld\u017ece zkusili. U\u017e p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi \u010dlenov\u00e9 d\u0159\u00edv\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u010deskoslovensk\u00fdch geologick\u00fdch expedic \u0159eky v Mongolsku sj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli. V\u011bd\u011blo se o jednom tragick\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu na \u0159ece Selenge, kdy nep\u0159e\u017eil kolega, ale to v\u00e1s prost\u011b nem\u016f\u017ee odradit. N\u00e1m se p\u0159ece nem\u016f\u017ee nic st\u00e1t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Krabi\u010dka cigaret, zapalova\u010d a konzerva kondenzovan\u00e9ho kakaa. Vid\u00edm to jako dnes jak jsme tyto \u017eivotn\u011b d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 v\u011bci zabalili do igelitov\u00e9ho pytl\u00edku a p\u0159iv\u00e1zali do lodi. Prvn\u00ed \u010dochtan p\u0159i\u0161el z\u00e1hy. Lev\u00fd p\u0159\u00edtok n\u00e1s nahodil do vrbi\u010dek a j\u00e1 jsem trochu zazmatkoval a byli jsme tam. Lo\u010f i p\u00e1dla jsme zachytili a teprve tady p\u0159i\u0161lo to stra\u0161n\u00e9 zji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed. Proud vody byl neskute\u010dn\u011b siln\u00fd. Nav\u00edc jemn\u00e1 zrn\u00ed\u010dka ve \u0161t\u011brku na dn\u011b byla vyplaven\u00e1 a \u0161t\u011brk nestabiln\u00ed. To jsem je\u0161t\u011b neza\u017eil. \u0160t\u011brk se choval jako bahno. Stoupne\u0161 na n\u011bj a probo\u0159\u00ed\u0161 se do p\u016flky l\u00edtek. Teprve na b\u0159ehu byl \u0161t\u011brk klasicky pevn\u00fd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slun\u00ed\u010dko sv\u00edtilo a i kdy\u017e foukalo, \u010do\u017e je mongolsk\u00fd standard, nebyla n\u00e1m zima. Zasm\u00e1li jsme se, oschli, nasedli a jeli d\u00e1l. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Druh\u00fd \u010dochtan byl hor\u0161\u00ed. Blodili jsme ve slep\u00fdch ramenech, kam jsme prost\u011b zajeli a p\u00e1dlovali v klidn\u00fdch vod\u00e1ch na pastvin\u00e1ch mezi kr\u00e1vami. Fakt dobr\u00fd. Kdy\u017e jsme na\u0161li zase hlavn\u00ed proud a vr\u00e1tili se sm\u00edch m\u011b p\u0159e\u0161el. Dostali jsme se z \u0159\u00ed\u010dky Tereld\u017e Gol do \u0159eky Tuul Gol, kter\u00e1 mimochodem prot\u00e9k\u00e1 Ulaanbaatarem. Na rovn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u00fasec\u00edch byl opravdu vid\u011bt sp\u00e1d \u0159eky. Prost\u011b vid\u00edte, \u017ee se ta masa vody \u017eene z kopce. Tak to jsem je\u0161t\u011b nikdy nevid\u011bl. A nevid\u011bl jsem ani dostate\u010dn\u011b v\u010das star\u00fd kmen pod hladinou. Za\u0159val jsem &#8222;pozor kmen&#8220;, ale to u\u017e jsme se \u0159\u00edtili na jeho vy\u010dn\u00edvaj\u00edc\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st. Honza dal pokyn &#8222;do prava&#8220; a lehl na p\u00e1dlo. Jen\u017ee p\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9, dejte lev\u00e1kovi pokyn -do prava-. Vsad\u00edm se o co chcete, \u017ee v\u011bt\u0161ina z n\u00e1s, lev\u00e1k\u016f, to oto\u010d\u00ed do leva. A to se tak\u00e9 stalo. A byli jsme tam. No jo, jen\u017ee j\u00e1 jsem nedos\u00e1hl. A i kdyby, ten proud byl tak siln\u00fd, \u017ee se neudr\u017e\u00edte i kdyby jste m\u011bli vodu n\u011bkam do p\u016fli stehen. \u0160el jsem po p\u00e1dlech a Honza t\u00e1hl lo\u010f ke b\u0159ehu. Zvl\u00e1dli jsme to. Ani nev\u00edm jak daleko n\u00e1s voda odnesla. Lo\u010f le\u017eela b\u0159ichem vzh\u016fru a bylo t\u0159eba ji oto\u010dit. Ale to ne\u0161lo. Siln\u00fd proud vys\u00e1l vzduch z pod lodi a kdy\u017e jsme ka\u017ed\u00fd na sv\u00e9 stran\u011b cht\u011bli lo\u010f nadzvednout a oto\u010dit, tak jsme se zabo\u0159ili do \u0161t\u011brku, ale s lod\u00ed jsme nehnuli. Nev\u00edm jak dlouho n\u00e1m to trvalo, ale pamatuju si, \u017ee jsme byli fakt vys\u00edleni. Na b\u0159ehu na slun\u00ed\u010dku jsme nab\u00edrali sil. Kakao a cig\u00e1ro \ud83d\ude42 a jede se d\u00e1l. Odhaduji, \u017ee to bylo tak v p\u016fli cesty. Pak u\u017e jsme jeli ale hoooodn\u011b opatrn\u011b a soust\u0159ed\u011bn\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U mostu p\u0159es \u0159eku Tuul Gol n\u00e1s \u010dekal Lubo\u0161 s Avi\u00ed a k ve\u010deru jsme se vr\u00e1tili ke stanu. Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee jsme tentokr\u00e1t moc dlouho nekl\u00e1bosili a \u0161lo se sp\u00e1t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_7.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_7-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"tereldz6\" class=\"wp-image-2407\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Honza (druh\u00fd, ten v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed),zku\u0161en\u00fd vod\u00e1k a jachta\u0159 a Lubo\u0161, nad\u0161enec pro v\u0161echno, ale sp\u00ed\u0161 za\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edk, vyrazili dal\u0161\u00ed den.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V\u0161imn\u011bte si, \u017ee jsou pon\u011bkud tepleji oble\u010deni. Ano, po\u010das\u00ed se p\u0159es noc zhor\u0161ilo a nem\u011bla to b\u00fdt \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 proch\u00e1zka vod\u00e1ck\u00fdm r\u00e1jem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pozd\u011b odpoledne jsem \u010dekal na kluky s Avi\u00ed u mostu zase j\u00e1. \u010cas plynul a ho\u0161i nikde. Ne \u017ee by nebylo v kabin\u011b auta docela p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b, ale kdy\u017e jsem vylezl na most a vyhl\u00ed\u017eel je, tak to opravdu p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 v pon\u011bkud siln\u00e9m a studen\u00e9m v\u011btru nebylo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A pak se v z\u00e1to\u010din\u011b objevili. Posledn\u00ed, ani ne kilometr rytmicky p\u00e1dlovali jak perfektn\u011b se\u0159\u00edzen\u00fd stroj. Tak vida jak jim to kluk\u016fm nakonec sedlo. Seb\u011bhl jsem pod most a v ti\u0161in\u011b zachytil \u0161pici lod\u011b aby mohli vystoupit. A nic. Ho\u0161i sed\u011bli, ztuhl\u00fd v\u00fdraz, modr\u00e9 rty. N\u011bjakou dobu nemohli vyl\u00e9zt. Pak mi \u0159ekli, \u017ee se ud\u011blali 17 kr\u00e1t. To se ned\u00e1 zapomenout, to bylo hrozn\u00e9. Po asi p\u00e1t\u00e9m, \u0161est\u00e9m \u010dochtanovi to p\u0159estali \u0159e\u0161it jestli oschnout nebo ne, prost\u011b nasedli a jeli d\u00e1l. Nev\u00edm kde jsme je\u0161t\u011b sebrali s\u00edly, teda hlavn\u011b Honza a Lubo\u0161, ale nalo\u017eili jsme lo\u010f a ostatn\u00ed v\u011bci a vr\u00e1tili se do M\u011bsta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ho\u0161i to ve zdrav\u00ed p\u0159e\u017eili. A mimochodem, Naadam je sv\u00e1tek mezi 11. a 13. \u010dervencem. A ten jejich &#8222;den&#8220; bylo t\u0159in\u00e1ct\u00e9ho. A te\u010f nev\u00edm jestli to nebyl p\u00e1tek :-), \u017ee by?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_8.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_8-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"tereldz7\" class=\"wp-image-2408\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Pov\u011br\u010div\u00ed zase a\u017e tak moc nejsme, ale ur\u010dit\u011b jsme vyrazili na Gandan. Kl\u00e1\u0161ter uprost\u0159ed Ulaanbaataru a jen tak pro jistotu zato\u010dili modl\u00edc\u00edmi ml\u00fdnky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_12.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"689\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_12-1024x689.jpg\" alt=\"gand1\" class=\"wp-image-2410\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Tak jak to d\u011bl\u00e1 spousta m\u00edstn\u00edch a tak jak to d\u011bl\u00e1me po\u0159\u00e1d, kdy\u017e se do Mongolska vrac\u00edme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_13.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"689\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_13-1024x689.jpg\" alt=\"gand2\" class=\"wp-image-2398\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_13-1024x689.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_13-300x202.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_13-768x517.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_13-1536x1034.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_13.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Jeden nikdy nev\u00ed \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_14.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"689\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_14-689x1024.jpg\" alt=\"gand3\" class=\"wp-image-2399\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_14-689x1024.jpg 689w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_14-202x300.jpg 202w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_14-768x1141.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_14-1034x1536.jpg 1034w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_14.jpg 1346w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 689px) 100vw, 689px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>A ur\u010dit\u011b stoj\u00ed za to vyrazit i na velice kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u00edsto s v\u00fdhledem na celou ulaanbaatarskou dolinu, kterou prot\u00e9k\u00e1 \u0159eka Tuul Gol, jedna z t\u011bch velk\u00fdch \u0159ek Mongolska. Takto jsme to vid\u011bli v tom roce a jak \u0159\u00edk\u00e1m po\u0159\u00e1d dokola: &#8222;dnes u\u017e je v\u0161echno \u00fapln\u011b jinak&#8220;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_15.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"689\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_15-1024x689.jpg\" alt=\"zajs1\" class=\"wp-image-2411\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Ale \u00fapln\u011b. Fakt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_16_2008.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_16_2008-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"zajs2\" class=\"wp-image-2400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_16_2008-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_16_2008-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_16_2008-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_16_2008.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>S pomoc\u00ed dne\u0161n\u00edch modern\u00edch technologi\u00ed v\u00e1m dnes m\u016f\u017eu celkem p\u0159esn\u011b zrekapitulovat ten poveden\u00fd v\u00fdlet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_mapy_com1.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"724\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_mapy_com1-1024x724.png\" alt=\"map1\" class=\"wp-image-2418\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Za m\u011bstem Nalajch, kter\u00e9 dnes, jen tak mimochodem, za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 sr\u016fstat s Ulaanbaatarem a v\u011b\u0159\u00edm, \u017ee brzy budeme mluvit o m\u011bstsk\u00e9 \u010dtvrti Nalach. Tak za Nalajchem odbo\u010d\u00edte do leva. (ano opravdu do leva, to je ta ruka, kterou nep\u00ed\u0161ete \ud83d\ude42 v\u011bt\u0161ina z v\u00e1s). A pak u\u017e je &#8222;n\u00e1\u0161&#8220; most p\u0159es \u0159eku Tuul Gol. St\u00e1le na sever a za Tereld\u017e\u00ed se sjede k \u0159\u00ed\u010dce Terel\u017e Gol. Tam jsme tehdy stanovali. Nikde nikdo, jen ty kr\u00e1vy na louk\u00e1ch kolem \u0159eky. Dnes plno jurtov\u00fdch, turistick\u00fdch kemp\u016f. Jo a jeden exkluzivn\u00ed ***** hotel, hotel Tereld\u017e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_mapy_com2.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"709\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_mapy_com2-1024x709.png\" alt=\"map2\" class=\"wp-image-2419\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Na leteck\u00e9 map\u011b (pou\u017eil jsem podklady z mapy.com , fakt nejdokonalej\u0161\u00ed navigace v Mongolsku, lep\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e Google) u\u017e to nevypad\u00e1 tak vl\u00eddn\u011b. Ale ty kopce, hory kolem, jsou \u017eulov\u00e9, kr\u00e1sn\u00e9, r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_mapy_com3.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"488\" src=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/1985_mapy_com3-1024x488.png\" alt=\"map3\" class=\"wp-image-2420\"\/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>A dnes u\u017e tak\u00e9 v\u00edm. Propluli jsme v\u00edc ne\u017e 50 km. Mus\u00edm pou\u017e\u00edt sou\u010dasn\u00fd slovn\u00edk a \u0159\u00edct &#8222;mega hust\u00fd&#8220; a v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fd rozd\u00edl okolo 60 m. Pozor sp\u00e1d na \u0159ece a pokud si pamatuju tak bez vodop\u00e1d\u016f \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Parta dobr\u00e1, z\u00e1\u017eitky na celou knihu, tak aspo\u0148 ten v\u00fdlet. A m\u016f\u017eu v\u00e1m \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee jsem tenkr\u00e1t v\u016fbec netu\u0161il co se m\u016f\u017ee p\u0159ihodit a jak v\u00e1s n\u00e1hoda vr\u00e1t\u00ed do Mongolska na \u010dty\u0159i dal\u0161\u00ed roky a vt\u00e1hne do toho celou va\u0161i rodinu. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tak zas p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\"><em>Je\u0161t\u011b takov\u00fd mal\u00fd dov\u011btek. V roce 2008 jsme s Honzou (t\u00edm velk\u00fdm) byli znovu v Mongolsku spole\u010dn\u011b. Projeli jsme m\u00edsta na kter\u00e1 jsme se v roce 1985 nedostali, ani jsme se tam dostat nemohli. Tentokr\u00e1t jsme tady nebyli pracovn\u011b, ale jako turist\u00e9. Ulaanbaatar jin\u00fd. Jin\u00fd k nepozn\u00e1n\u00ed. V\u0161echno jin\u00e9 a Honza konstatoval. Jin\u00e9 modern\u00ed, ale j\u00e1 si chci pamatovat to Mongolsko z osmdes\u00e1t\u00fdch let.<\/em> <em>Sleduji ten v\u00fdvoj u\u017e mnoho let a mus\u00edm mu d\u00e1t za pravdu. Faktem ale z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1. Vyje\u010f ven z M\u011bsta. Vyje\u010f do stepi a odbo\u010d z frekventovan\u00fdch cest pln\u00fdch turist\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed se do Mongolska hrnou. Odbo\u010d a je\u010f! A za sedmero \u0159ekami a sedmero horami je st\u00e1le ten r\u00e1j. Ta n\u00e1dhern\u00e1, \u010dist\u00e1 nepol\u00edben\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda a ti \u00fa\u017easn\u00ed, mil\u00ed a p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u00ed lid\u00e9. <\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Zase Ulaanbaatar, tentokr\u00e1t kancel\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce, n\u011bco nov\u00e9ho. Po t\u0159ech \u00fa\u017easn\u00fdch a nezapomenuteln\u00fdch sez\u00f3n\u00e1ch v Laosu jsem se v roce 1985 vr\u00e1til do Mongolska. O Laosu si nap\u00ed\u0161eme n\u011bjak\u00e9 ucelen\u00e9 pov\u00edd\u00e1n\u00ed v n\u011bkter\u00fdch dal\u0161\u00edch kapitol\u00e1ch. Zpracov\u00e1v\u00e1m negativy a diapozitivy a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm co napsat, aby to bylo publikovateln\u00e9. To ale p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b, te\u010f pro\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me Mongolsko. Tak\u017ee v roce &hellip;<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=2412\" class=\"more-link pen_button pen_element_default pen_icon_arrow_double\">Pokra\u010dovat ve\u00a0\u010dten\u00ed <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">1985 _ v\u00fdlet na Tereld\u017e<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2405,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2412","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tenkrat-na-vychode"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2412","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2412"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2412\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2433,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2412\/revisions\/2433"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2405"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2412"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2412"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2412"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}