{"id":2389,"date":"2025-05-28T21:35:21","date_gmt":"2025-05-28T19:35:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=2389"},"modified":"2025-05-28T22:40:48","modified_gmt":"2025-05-28T20:40:48","slug":"1981-_-modoto","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=2389","title":{"rendered":"1981 _ MODOTO"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vr\u00e1t\u00edme se po letech k dal\u0161\u00edm vzpom\u00ednk\u00e1m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"nam_suchbaatar_1\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ano jsme zase na nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed ve st\u0159edn\u00ed Asii. Suchbaatarovo n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed s pohledem na Velk\u00fd lidov\u00fd Chural, vlastn\u011b parlament. Dnes v roce 2025 je to \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed a hlavn\u011b to mauzoleum p\u0159ed parlamentem u\u017e tam nen\u00ed. Dnes je tam obrovsk\u00e1 socha \u010cingisch\u00e1na, kter\u00e9ho pova\u017euj\u00ed Mongolov\u00e9 za nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed postavu mongolsk\u00fdch d\u011bjin a mnoz\u00ed v cel\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b jim d\u00e1vaj\u00ed za pravdu. V mauzoleu byl ulo\u017een \u010cojbalsan, souputn\u00edk J.V. Stalina a t\u0159eba tak\u00e9 K. Gottwalda u n\u00e1s. Tak\u017ee je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee u\u017e tam nen\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V tom roce jsem byl na lokalit\u011b Modoto nedaleko administrativn\u00edho centra Cencher Mandal, kde se firma Intergeo pokou\u0161ela obnovit t\u011b\u017ebu a \u00fapravu c\u00ednov\u00fdch rud.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V roce 1980 m\u011b sice delegovali do skupiny, kter\u00e1 m\u011bla vyjet do Laosu, ale administrativn\u011b se to n\u011bjak nezvl\u00e1dlo a cel\u00e1 expedice se odsunula o rok a tak jsem vyrazil zp\u00e1tky do Mongolska i kdy\u017e jsem se s n\u00edm smutn\u011b lou\u010dil v \u0159\u00edjnu 1980.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"such2\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pomn\u00edk zakladatele novodob\u00e9ho Mongolska Suchbaatara byl v t\u00e9 dob\u011b v\u00fdznamnou dominantou n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. Ne, \u017ee by tomu dnes tak nebylo, ale okoln\u00ed budovy u\u017e d\u00e1vno nejsou t\u0159\u00ed a\u017e \u010dty\u0159patrov\u00e9 a tak se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 jezdeck\u00e1 socha pon\u011bkud ztr\u00e1cet. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"ulice\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I j\u00edzda po ulaanbaatarsk\u00fdch ulic\u00edch je dnes pon\u011bkud jin\u00e1. Mnohdy, \u0159ekl bych, dosti z\u00e1\u017eitkov\u00e1. Kolony, z\u00e1cpy, neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed aut. Tenkr\u00e1t? P\u00e1r autobus\u016f, p\u00e1r n\u00e1kladn\u00edch voz\u016f sov\u011btsk\u00e9 provenience a n\u011bkdy i v centru m\u011bsta mongolsk\u00fd pastevec na koni. No a my s tehdy modern\u00edmi rumunsk\u00fdmi offroady ARO. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"naadam1\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V \u010dervenci v den jednoho z nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch st\u00e1tn\u00edch sv\u00e1tku Naadam prob\u00edhaj\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00fd rok velk\u00e9 oslavy. Dnes u\u017e asi neuvid\u00edte vystoupen\u00ed ml\u00e1de\u017ee, ale zato se st\u00e1le po\u0159\u00e1daj\u00ed sportovn\u00ed sout\u011b\u017ee, z\u00e1pas, lukost\u0159elba a vrcholem jsou z\u00e1vody kon\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"vojak\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ho\u0161i z mongolsk\u00e9 arm\u00e1dy vyt\u00e1hli slavnostn\u00ed uniformy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"socha\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A my jsme se fotili u sochy Stalina, kter\u00e1 st\u00e1la p\u0159ed budovou st\u00e1tn\u00ed knihovny. Knihovna stoj\u00ed d\u00e1l, Stalin ne \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"pohled\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Naskenoval jsem dobovou pohlednici. Je to k\u0159i\u017eovatka u n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, p\u0159ed hlavn\u00ed po\u0161tou. A z t\u00e9to hlavn\u00ed po\u0161ty pos\u00edl\u00e1me pohlednice dodnes. Je nov\u00e1, upraven\u00e1 a pohlednice jsou v\u00fdrazn\u011b p\u011bkn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Paradoxem je to, \u017ee poslat pohlednici z Mongolska do \u010cesk\u00e9 republiky je v Mongolsku levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e u na\u0161\u00ed \u010cesk\u00e9 po\u0161ty v r\u00e1mci republiky. No jo, ale kdo by jezdil z Berouna do Ulaanbaataru, aby poslal pohlednici do Olomouce, \u017ee?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"cenchermandal\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tak a poj\u010fme se pod\u00edvat do stepi na lokalitu Modoto. Toto je nedalek\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko, spr\u00e1vn\u00ed centrum Cencher Mandal. \u00dahledn\u00e1 jurtovi\u0161t\u011b, byl tam obchod, kulturn\u00ed centrum a benzinov\u00e1 stanice. A pak u\u017e do \u00fadol\u00ed na Modoto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"modoto1\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ano, ano. Takto n\u011bjak vypad\u00e1 p\u011bkn\u00e9 zelen\u00e9 \u00fadol\u00ed kdy\u017e v n\u011bm geologov\u00e9 najdou zn\u00e1mky n\u011bjak\u00fdch rud, v na\u0161em p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b rud c\u00ednov\u00fdch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"modoto2\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Postav\u00ed se z\u00e1kladna, postav\u00ed se \u00fapravna a jde se na to.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"modoto3\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"modoto4\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"modoto4\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Buldozery, bagry, n\u00e1kladn\u00ed auta. Velk\u00e1 n\u00e1kladn\u00ed auta. V \u00fadol\u00ed u\u017e se po druh\u00e9 sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lce t\u011b\u017eilo. Byla zde kolonie v\u00e1le\u010dn\u00fdch zajatc\u016f. Na konci pades\u00e1t\u00fdch let se m\u011blo za to, \u017ee je vyt\u011b\u017eeno, ale my jsme s dokonalej\u0161\u00ed technikou lo\u017eisko za\u010dali t\u011b\u017eit znovu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"modoto5\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A co j\u00e1? J\u00e1 jsem zpo\u010d\u00e1tku moc netu\u0161il co m\u011b \u010dek\u00e1. V m\u00edstech, kter\u00e1 byla vy\u010dlen\u011bna jako nov\u00e9 nad\u011bjn\u00e9 bloky se za\u010daly vrtat pr\u016fzkumn\u00e9, velkoobjemov\u00e9 vrty. Z ka\u017ed\u00e9ho vrtu kub\u00edk a\u017e dva materi\u00e1lu. A j\u00e1 jsem dostal na starost malou testovac\u00ed \u00fapravnu a zji\u0161\u0165ovali jsme kolik c\u00ednov\u00e9 rudy, kasiteritu, se d\u00e1 z kub\u00edku z\u00edskat. Podklad pro v\u00fdpo\u010det z\u00e1sob jednotliv\u00fdch blok\u016f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"upravna1\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To je ona. \u00dapravni\u010dka, krasavice. Ten nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed f\u00f3r, ale teprve m\u011bl p\u0159ij\u00edt. Na velk\u00e9 \u00fapravn\u011b pracovali spole\u010dn\u011b s na\u0161ima i chlapi z Cencher Mandalu. R\u00e1no je p\u0159ivezl autobus na sm\u011bnu. J\u00e1 jsem vyfasoval p\u011bt d\u011bv\u010dat. No d\u011bv\u010dat, prost\u011b p\u011bt \u017een, n\u011bkter\u00e9 u\u017e byly maminky. Vlastn\u011b mysl\u00edm, \u017ee v\u0161echny. Paradox doby byl ten, \u017ee zat\u00edm co rann\u00ed autobus dovezl na sm\u011bnu v\u017edycky tak 80% chlap\u016f a st\u00e1le se \u0159e\u0161ilo co s t\u00edm, „moje“ d\u011bv\u010data byla ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no v pln\u00e9 sestav\u011b.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No to je tak trochu o vztahu k odpov\u011bdnosti. Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee v na\u0161ich kon\u010din\u00e1ch to tehdy nebylo a mo\u017en\u00e1 ani dnes nen\u00ed jin\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"linka1\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ta pr\u00e1ce nebyla \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 proch\u00e1zka.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"linka2\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ka\u017ed\u00e1 m\u011bla sv\u00e9 stanovi\u0161t\u011b a poctiv\u011b plnily sv\u00e9 \u00fakoly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"linka3\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Jenom to m\u011blo malink\u00fd h\u00e1\u010dek. Teda h\u00e1\u010dek asi ne, ale mongolsk\u00e9 z\u00e1kony umo\u017e\u0148ovaly pracuj\u00edc\u00edm \u017een\u00e1m v\u011bnovat se sv\u00fdm d\u011btem. Konkr\u00e9tn\u011b umo\u017enit kojen\u00ed d\u011bt\u00ed v p\u0159ed\u0161koln\u00edm v\u011bku. A tak za mnou p\u0159i\u0161ly, vysv\u011btlily mi to a ve 12 hodin, ka\u017ed\u00fd den, nastoupily p\u0159ed ubytovnu a j\u00e1 jsem je zavezl dol\u016f do \u00fadol\u00ed do Cencher Mandalu, tam jsem objel jurty, kde \u010dekaly d\u011bti na kojen\u00ed a druh\u00fdm kole\u010dkem jsem maminky zase nabral zp\u00e1tky a fr\u010deli jsme na na\u0161i \u00fapravni\u010dku \ud83d\ude42 Tehdy m\u011b docela zar\u00e1\u017eelo, \u017ee na kojen\u00ed n\u011bkdy u\u017e d\u011bti \u010dekaly p\u0159ed jurtou a n\u011bkter\u00e9 jsem odhadoval tak na p\u011bt let. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"parta\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A kdy\u017e jsme na Modotu kon\u010dili sez\u00f3nu tak jsme se, c vyfotili dokonce na barvu \ud83d\ude42 Byly fajn a lou\u010dili jsme se jako sta\u0159\u00ed k\u00e1mo\u0161i. Co m\u011b dostalo byl d\u00e1rek na rozlou\u010denou. Dali mi pen\u011b\u017eenku a v n\u00ed byla bankovka. Pr\u00fd se to m\u00e1 tak d\u00e1vat, aby se u v\u00e1s dr\u017eely pen\u00edze. Tak nev\u00edm kde jsme ud\u011blali chybu \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bereven<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na Modotu nebyly jen sam\u00e9 pracovn\u00ed dny a kdo nejel po odpracov\u00e1n\u00ed \u010dtrn\u00e1cti dn\u00ed na oddych do Ulaanbaataru, aby si odpo\u010dinul v no\u010dn\u00edch barech (teda tenkr\u00e1t tam byly jen dva) nebo si t\u0159eba vyprat a nakoupit n\u011bjak\u00e9 drobnosti, ten m\u011bl mo\u017enost sko\u010dit do auta a prozkoum\u00e1vat okol\u00ed. A bylo co. Na severov\u00fdchod dosti obt\u00ed\u017en\u00fdmi cestami, \u00fadol\u00edmi a lesn\u00edmi pr\u016fsmyky se dalo dojet ke z\u0159\u00edcenin\u011b star\u00e9ho lamaistick\u00e9ho kl\u00e1\u0161tera. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bereven<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A\u017e po mnoha letech jsem zjistil jeho n\u00e1zev. Je to kl\u00e1\u0161ter Bereven Chijd a m\u016f\u017eu v\u00e1m \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee jsem tam byl je\u0161t\u011b mnohokr\u00e1t po del\u0161\u00edch \u010dasov\u00fdch obdob\u00edch. A v\u00edte co? Dnes je kl\u00e1\u0161ter zase funk\u010dn\u00ed, je obnoven\u00fd a p\u0159i pohledu na m\u00e9 star\u00e9 fotografie si mysl\u00edm, \u017ee je to fakt obdivuhodn\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bereven<\/a>
V roce 1981 by t\u011b\u017eko n\u011bkdo \u0159ekl, \u017ee se kl\u00e1\u0161ter poda\u0159\u00ed znovu opravit. Tady to vypad\u00e1 dost definitivn\u011b.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nade\u0161el \u010das a s koncem l\u00e9ta se lokalita uzav\u00edrala a opou\u0161t\u011bla. Zima v mongolsk\u00e9 stepi nen\u00ed opravdu nic moc, ale na to jsem tak\u00e9 \u010dasem p\u0159i\u0161el. T\u011b\u017eko se opou\u0161t\u00ed dobr\u00e1 parta, nov\u00e1 p\u0159\u00e1telstv\u00ed. N\u011bkdy jsou i t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 chv\u00edle, ale ty \u010dasem ustupuj\u00ed do pozad\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"modoto<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Podzim je v Mongolsku kr\u00e1tk\u00fd. V\u0161echno rychle ze\u017eloutne a nastoup\u00ed mrazy a ne \u010dasto, ale n\u011bkdy i sn\u00edh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Laos si nech\u00e1me na jin\u00fd blok. P\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b p\u0159esko\u010d\u00edme nejak\u00e9 obdob\u00ed a vr\u00e1t\u00edme se do Mongolska v roce 1985. P\u00e1r vtipn\u00fdch historek k tomu m\u00e1m a nebude to tak nudn\u00e9 jako dnes \ud83d\ude42 to mi v\u011b\u0159te.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vr\u00e1t\u00edme se po letech k dal\u0161\u00edm vzpom\u00ednk\u00e1m. Ano jsme zase na nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed ve st\u0159edn\u00ed Asii. Suchbaatarovo n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed s pohledem na Velk\u00fd lidov\u00fd Chural, vlastn\u011b parlament. Dnes v roce 2025 je to \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed a hlavn\u011b to mauzoleum p\u0159ed parlamentem u\u017e tam nen\u00ed. Dnes je tam obrovsk\u00e1 socha \u010cingisch\u00e1na, kter\u00e9ho pova\u017euj\u00ed Mongolov\u00e9 za nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed …
Pokra\u010dovat ve\u00a0\u010dten\u00ed 1981 _ MODOTO<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2385,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2389","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tenkrat-na-vychode"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2389","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2389"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2389\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2395,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2389\/revisions\/2395"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2385"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2389"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2389"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2389"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}