{"id":213,"date":"2016-05-18T14:43:29","date_gmt":"2016-05-18T12:43:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=213"},"modified":"2016-05-18T16:44:07","modified_gmt":"2016-05-18T14:44:07","slug":"ulaanbaatar-pametihodnosti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=213","title":{"rendered":"Ulaanbaatar – pam\u011btihodnosti"},"content":{"rendered":"

No, p\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9, tak jsme se pobavili a zasm\u00e1li nad z\u00e1\u017eitky z mas\u00e1\u017en\u00edho sal\u00f3nu. Mus\u00edm, ale \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee to bylo opravdu, do slova a do p\u00edsmene, blahod\u00e1rn\u00e9.<\/p>\n

A te\u010f teda jdu splnit slib. Ud\u011bl\u00e1me si exkurzi po zaj\u00edmav\u00fdch m\u00edstech Ulaanbaataru.<\/p>\n

Nebudu v\u00e1s unavovat v\u00fd\u010dtem dat a p\u0159esnou histori\u00ed m\u011bsta. Koho to u\u017e chytilo a hloub\u011bji se o tuto vzd\u00e1lenou zemi za\u010dne zaj\u00edmat, ten si ur\u010dit\u011b probrouzd\u00e1 bezedn\u00fd intrnet, zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b pak wikipedii. Tam najde t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v\u0161e, i j\u00e1 jsem tam u\u017e p\u0159isp\u00edval, o \u010dem jin\u00e9m ne\u017e o Mongolsku \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Za\u010dneme tradi\u010dn\u011b na b\u00fdval\u00e9m Suchbaatarov\u011b n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, dnes je p\u0159ejmenov\u00e1no na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed \u010cingisch\u00e1novo. P\u0159ekvapuje to n\u011bkoho, m\u011b teda ne. Pro Mongoly je \u010cingisch\u00e1n praotec v\u0161ech Mongol\u016f a tak je mu dnes v\u011bnov\u00e1no prakticky v\u0161e, n\u011bkdy m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee nebyl u\u017e jin\u00fd Mongol ne\u017e \u010cingis.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\nUprost\u0159ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed stoj\u00ed jezdeck\u00e1 socha Suchbaatara, zakladatele novodob\u00e9ho mongolsk\u00e9ho st\u00e1tu. Byl to takov\u00fd mongolsk\u00fd TGM, k jeho \u0161kod\u011b zakl\u00e1dal st\u00e1t podle sov\u011btsk\u00e9ho vzoru, tak\u017ee je dnes tak tro\u0161ku upoza\u010fov\u00e1n. Ot\u00e1zkou z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1, jestli by bez n\u011bho nebylo Mongolsko dnes sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed \u010ciny nebo Rusk\u00e9 federace.<\/p>\n

Suchbaatar sed\u00ed na koni a d\u00edv\u00e1 se do pr\u016f\u010del\u00ed mongolsk\u00e9ho parlamentu, Velk\u00e9ho lidov\u00e9ho churalu, v jeho\u017e pr\u016f\u010del\u00ed sed\u00ed s\u00e1m velk\u00fd \u010cingisch\u00e1n. No to to maj\u00ed kluci p\u0159i jedn\u00e1n\u00ed churalu dost slo\u017eit\u00e9 \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

N\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed m\u00e1 skute\u010dn\u011b gigantick\u00e9 rozm\u011bry a j\u00e1 jsem sv\u00fdm zn\u00e1m\u00fdm a kamar\u00e1d\u016fm \u010di rodinn\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00edk\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed za n\u00e1mi p\u0159ijeli na n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu, \u0159\u00edkal, \u017ee je to nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed ve St\u0159edn\u00ed Asii. Mo\u017en\u00e1 to byla trochu nads\u00e1zka, ale uka\u017ete mi v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed. Dnes je t\u0159etina n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed na ji\u017en\u00ed stran\u011b vyhrazena jako parkovi\u0161t\u011b.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nD\u0159\u00edv byl z n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed hezk\u00fd v\u00fdhled na okoln\u00ed hory a hlavn\u011b na posv\u00e1tn\u00fd Bogd Uul. Za jeho h\u0159ebenem, kdy\u017e jsme masiv Bogd Uul objeli, nav\u0161t\u00edvili jsme kl\u00e1\u0161ter Manzhushir u m\u011bsta Zuunmod. Pamatujete?<\/p>\n

Dnes ve v\u00fdhledu vad\u00ed gigantick\u00e9 stavby typu Blue Tower, jeden z nejdra\u017es\u00edch hotel\u016f a co mi p\u0159ijde opravdu vtipn\u00e9 je to, \u017ee bohat\u00ed host\u00e9 za tu\u010dnou cenu mohou koukat p\u0159es n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed kluk\u016fm poslaneck\u00fdm a\u017e do pol\u00e9vky. Celkem velk\u00e1 budova Churalu bude asi z v\u00fd\u0161ky vypadat jako krabi\u010dka od cigaret \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\nTa modern\u00ed v\u00fdstavba je tak brut\u00e1ln\u00ed a bezohledn\u00e1 k historick\u00fdm stavb\u00e1m, \u017ee pokud fakt nev\u00edte, tak n\u011bkter\u00e9 pam\u00e1tky v\u016fbec nenajdete.<\/p>\n

Tento drobe\u010dek konkr\u00e9tn\u011b, je s\u00eddlo \u010cojd\u017ein l\u00e1my, vysok\u00e9ho p\u0159edstavitele lamaistick\u00fdch budhist\u016f v Mongolsku. Lamov\u00e9 jsou prakticky identi\u010dt\u00ed s l\u00e1my v Nep\u00e1lu a Tibetu. Odtud byl tak\u00e9 lamaismus i p\u0159es velkou vzd\u00e1lenost p\u0159inesen. M\u00e1 to svou logiku, \u017eivotn\u00ed podn\u00ednky na n\u00e1horn\u00edch plo\u0161in\u00e1ch jsou p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b hodn\u011b podobn\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nP\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9, l\u00e1ma nebyl doma, tak jsem mu to probliknul p\u0159es mezeru mezi k\u0159\u00eddly vrat. Asi jsem tam hodil st\u00edn, proto\u017ee hned vrata otev\u0159el borec v mask\u00e1\u010d\u00edch a netv\u00e1\u0159il se moc p\u0159\u00e1telsky. Nahodil jsem zn\u00e1m\u00fd odzbrojuj\u00edc\u00ed ksicht a bliknul je\u0161t\u011b ozdobu na vratech, \u017ee jako, \u017ee o to mi \u0161lo. A pro\u0161lo to \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Nechme \u010cojd\u017eina meditovat a poj\u010fme se pod\u00edvat na dal\u0161\u00ed, kdysi v\u00fdrazn\u00fd, objekt ve m\u011bst\u011b.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nJe to zimn\u00ed s\u00eddlo posledn\u00edho ch\u00e1na Bogdgeg\u00e9na. V pekingu m\u011bli c\u00edsa\u0159i letn\u00ed pal\u00e1c, Bogdgeg\u00e9n m\u011bl pal\u00e1c zimn\u00ed. P\u0159es l\u00e9to toti\u017e \u010dundroval po stepi a \u017eil v jurt\u011b (pat\u0159i\u010dn\u011b vybaven\u00e9), \u010do\u017e je Mongol\u016fm vlastn\u00ed dodnes.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\nPo zavr\u0161en\u00ed socialistick\u00e9 p\u0159em\u011bny a p\u0159evzet\u00ed moci, nechali soudruzi star\u00e9ho Bogdgeg\u00e9na do\u017e\u00edt v jeho pal\u00e1ci. Jestli mohl ven nebo ne nev\u00edm, ale jeliko\u017e byl i nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm p\u0159edstavitelem n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fdm ne\u0161lo ho jen tak odstranit. Byl toti\u017e osm\u00fdm p\u0159evt\u011blen\u00edm – 8. d\u017eevdzundamba chutagt – a tak \u017eil a\u017e do roku 1924 a za br\u00e1nou pal\u00e1ce mu zat\u00edm budovali lidovou republiku. Devat\u00e1 reinkarnace, \u010dili hled\u00e1n\u00ed dev\u00e1t\u00e9ho p\u0159evt\u011blen\u00ed u\u017e soudruzi zak\u00e1zali, p\u0159esto byl tajn\u011b vyhled\u00e1n a \u017eil a\u017e do roku 2012. <\/p>\n

(Historick\u00e9 podrobnosti a data \u010derp\u00e1m z knihy D\u011bjiny Mongolska, kterou perfektn\u011b napsali p\u00e1nov\u00e9  Ond\u0159ej Srba a Michal Schwarz. V\u0161em z\u00e1jemc\u016fm v\u0159ele doporu\u010duji. Vydalo NLN, s.r.o. v roce 2015)<\/i><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Dovnit\u0159 jsem ani tady ne\u0161el i kdy\u017e za pokladn\u00edm ok\u00e9nkem na m\u011b strejda kukal. Pravda, v\u0161ude bylo pr\u00e1zdno, sez\u00f3na je\u0161t\u011b nen\u00ed, ale j\u00e1 si to nech\u00e1m taky na l\u00e9to, a\u017e tady budeme s kamar\u00e1dama.<\/p>\n

Nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edm kl\u00e1\u0161terem v Ulaanbaataru, tak\u00e9 nejnav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u011bj\u0161\u00edm, nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm a provozovan\u00fdm bez p\u0159eru\u0161en\u00ed ,je kl\u00e1\u0161ter Gandan.<\/p>\n

Gandan stoj\u00ed na v\u00fdborn\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b na n\u00e1vr\u0161\u00ed a dnes tvo\u0159\u00ed takov\u00e9 pomysln\u00e9 srdce m\u011bsta. <\/p>\n

I kdy\u017e u\u017e novostavby, ba i d\u0155\u00edve postaven\u00e9 domy vytla\u010dily jurty na okraj m\u011bsta. Okolo Gandanu v mal\u00e9m, bl\u00edzk\u00e9m okruhu jurtovi\u0161t\u011b z\u016fstala. Ty jurty maj\u00ed obrovskou v\u00fdhodu, jak se m\u011bsto rozr\u016fst\u00e1, tak se jurty sbal\u00ed, popojde se d\u00e1l a \u0161up u\u017e zase stoj\u00ed a bydl\u00edme :-).  Zkuste to doma se sv\u00fdm dome\u010dkem na kraji m\u011bsta. J\u00e1 v\u00e1m to \u0159eknu, – nejde to -!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nJ\u00e1 jsem p\u0159i\u0161el ke kl\u00e1\u0161teru zcela netradi\u010dn\u011b z boku. Hlavn\u00ed br\u00e1na se nach\u00e1z\u00ed po v\u00fdstupu do kopce z t\u0159\u00eddy M\u00edru. My m\u00e1me v Lys\u00e9 taky M\u00edrovku \ud83d\ude42 , j\u00e1 jsem ov\u0161em cht\u011bl vid\u011bt jak roste nov\u00e9 budhistick\u00e9 centrum. V roce 2011 tady tr\u010dela armatura sloup\u016f na druh\u00e9m pat\u0159e, dnes mi p\u0155ipad\u00e1, \u017ee l\u00e1mov\u00e9 fini\u0161uj\u00ed. Je to ta velk\u00e1 budova v pravo. Ta tam d\u0159\u00edv nebyla a jak jinak, za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 zasti\u0148ovat vlastn\u00ed kl\u00e1\u0161ter.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nBr\u00e1na do kl\u00e1\u0161tera je to\u0165. Hlavn\u00ed br\u00e1nu do cel\u00e9ho are\u00e1lu m\u00e1m za z\u00e1dy. Tam je pokladna, tam jsem se moc necpal.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\nDo kl\u00e1\u0161tera jsme chodili to\u010dit ml\u00fdnky p\u0159ed odjezdem a vzhledem k tomu, \u017ee ve \u010dtvrtek let\u00edm byl v \u00fater\u00fd nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u010das. Poctiv\u011b jsem to\u010dil a to\u010dil. (Ve\u010der mi do\u0161lo, \u017ee n\u00e1ramek FitBit jsem p\u011bkn\u011b zblbnul a po\u010d\u00edtal mi i t\u0159i kroky za ml\u00fdnek, tak\u017ee kilometry p\u011bkn\u011b zkreslen\u00e9, ale co, i to je kalorick\u00fd v\u00fddej, ne?)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nP\u0159ilo\u017een\u00edm \u010dela na posv\u00e1tn\u00e1mista na zdi kl\u00e1\u0161tera sv\u00e9 motlitby je\u0161t\u011b umocn\u00edte. Tak jsem umoc\u0148oval. (M\u00edsta jsou z\u0159eteln\u00e1, tro\u0161i\u010dku umazan\u00e1. Bylo docela horko , ta jsem tam i j\u00e1 zanechal sv\u016fj pot :-))<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nToto n\u00e1m kdysi kdosi \u0159ekl, \u017ee je ml\u00fdnek plodnosti. On je to p\u011bkn\u00fd ml\u00fdn. Ze\u0165\u00e1k s n\u00edm to\u010dil, na\u0161e holky, kdy\u017e byly mal\u00e9, taky. Te\u010f m\u00e1me doma t\u0159i kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 vnu\u010dky. Druh\u00fd neto\u010dil, maj\u00ed zat\u00edm jednoho klou\u010dka. Rad\u0161i jsem neto\u010dil, a\u0165 si to vy\u0159e\u0161\u00ed sami.<\/p>\n

Ale honem k vrcholu Gandanu.<\/p>\n

Ja to chr\u00e1m Aval\u00f3kit\u00e9\u0161v\u00e1ry (to bych si nikdy nezapamatoval, nazev \u010derp\u00e1m z v\u00fd\u0161e uveden\u00e9 literatury).<\/i><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\n<\/i><\/p>\n

Tomuto objektu jsme kdysi \u0159\u00edkali knihovna. Byl zav\u0159en\u00fd, ale uk\u00e1zalo se \u017ee tam snad skute\u010dn\u011b byl n\u011bjak\u00fd arch\u00edv. Dnes v chr\u00e1mu stoj\u00ed obrovsk\u00e1 (pr\u00fd 27 m vysok\u00e1) bronzov\u00e1 socha Aval\u00f3kit\u00e9\u0161vary. Socha je dut\u00e1 a uvnit\u0159 jsou usu\u0161en\u00e9 stepn\u00ed byliny (pr\u00fd 7 tun). Vstoupit se d\u00e1 jen p\u0159es pokladnu a tak jsem mlad\u00e9mu l\u00e1movi v oran\u017eov\u00e9m zaplatil 4 000 MNT.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nZa II. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky sochu roz\u0159ezali a odvezli Rusov\u00e9. Podobn\u00fd p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh jako rekv\u00edrov\u00e1n\u00ed bronzov\u00fdch zvon\u016f N\u011bmci u n\u00e1s. Bronz byl pot\u0159eba na tu blbou hru na voj\u00e1\u010dky, kterou Adolf a Josip Visarionivi\u010d hr\u00e1li. <\/p>\n

V chr\u00e1mu je v\u00e1m \u00fazko a do takov\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ky pohl\u00ed\u017e\u00edte s posv\u00e1tnou \u00factou. Kolem sochy je po obvodu chr\u00e1mu nepo\u010d\u00edtan\u011b ml\u00fdnk\u016f tak jsme s Mongoly jednodu\u0161e honili kilometry.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nNahnal jsem si rukou tro\u0161ku d\u00fdmu do obli\u010deje, \u010d\u00edm\u017e jsem se o\u010distil a kl\u00e1\u0161ter jsem, pro tentokr\u00e1t, opustil.<\/p>\n

P\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9, je\u0161t\u011b mal\u00fd dov\u011btek.<\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e dnes proch\u00e1z\u00edte v Ulaanbaataru betonov\u00e1 s\u00eddli\u0161t\u011b, m\u016f\u017ee se nakr\u00e1sn\u011b st\u00e1t, \u017ee naraz\u00edte na mal\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161terek vt\u011bsnan\u00fd mezi domy. Je to takov\u00fd ostr\u016fvek pro prac\u00ed a shonem unaven\u00e9ho \u010dlov\u011bka. Lamaismus k Mongol\u016fm pat\u0159\u00ed a tak mi to p\u0159ipad\u00e1 docela norm\u00e1ln\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a>
\nCo mn\u011b u\u017e tak norm\u00e1ln\u00ed nep\u0159ipad\u00e1 je implementace nov\u00fdch n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nR\u016fzn\u00fdch odno\u017e\u00ed katolick\u00fdch c\u00edrkv\u00ed je tady dnes u\u017e dost. Dokonce jsem vid\u011bl bl\u00edzko centra rozestav\u011bnou me\u0161itu.<\/p>\n

(Uveden\u00e9 je m\u016fj osobn\u00ed n\u00e1zor)<\/i><\/p>\n

Z\u00edtra, kdy\u017e mnoz\u00ed z v\u00e1s budou vst\u00e1vat a chystat se do pr\u00e1ce, j\u00e1 budu nasedat do letadla a t\u011bsn\u011b po poledni odlet\u00edme z Ulaanbaataru. Polet\u00edme sm\u011br Bishkek, s p\u0159est\u00e1vkou d\u00e1l Istanbul a v p\u00e1tek budu v Praze.<\/p>\n

A potom u\u017e za\u010dne tvrd\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edprava na odjezd. A my se zase setk\u00e1me. Zale\u017e\u00ed jen na v\u00e1s. Budu ps\u00e1t.<\/p>\n

Tak zdarec! \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

No, p\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9, tak jsme se pobavili a zasm\u00e1li nad z\u00e1\u017eitky z mas\u00e1\u017en\u00edho sal\u00f3nu. Mus\u00edm, ale \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee to bylo opravdu, do slova a do p\u00edsmene, blahod\u00e1rn\u00e9. A te\u010f teda jdu splnit slib. Ud\u011bl\u00e1me si exkurzi po zaj\u00edmav\u00fdch m\u00edstech Ulaanbaataru. Nebudu v\u00e1s unavovat v\u00fd\u010dtem dat a p\u0159esnou histori\u00ed m\u011bsta. Koho to u\u017e chytilo a hloub\u011bji se …
Pokra\u010dovat ve\u00a0\u010dten\u00ed Ulaanbaatar – pam\u011btihodnosti<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":219,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-213","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-priprava"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/213","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=213"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/213\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":234,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/213\/revisions\/234"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/219"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=213"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=213"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=213"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}