{"id":2014,"date":"2017-12-28T18:34:48","date_gmt":"2017-12-28T16:34:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=2014"},"modified":"2017-12-28T18:34:48","modified_gmt":"2017-12-28T16:34:48","slug":"vzpominka-na-karakol","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/?p=2014","title":{"rendered":"Vzpom\u00ednka na KARAKOL"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dlouho jsme se nesly\u0161eli, dlouho jsme se nevid\u011bli. P\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9 na konci tohoto roku chci je\u0161t\u011b vzpomenout na n\u00e1\u0161 posledn\u00ed v\u00fdlet z t\u00e1bora u jezera Issyk Kul do nedalek\u00e9ho m\u011bsta Karakol.<\/p>\n

Asi by to nebylo nic zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho, kdyby to nebyl ten Karakol, kter\u00fd na b\u0159ehu jezera vznikl jako obchodn\u00ed osada na Hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 stezce. Ano star\u00e1 obchodn\u00ed osada p\u0159ed n\u00e1stupem do poho\u0159\u00ed Tian \u0160an. Posilnit, vym\u011bnit kon\u011b, odpo\u010dinout a za horami u\u017e je \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e1 rovina s m\u011bsty a vysn\u011bn\u00fdm zbo\u017e\u00edm, v prvn\u00ed \u0159ad\u011b hedv\u00e1b\u00edm. Osada postaven\u00e1 rusk\u00fdmi obchodn\u00edky a proto je zde velice, velice star\u00fd, d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fd, pravoslavn\u00fd kostel.<\/p>\n

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Z d\u00e1lky zaj\u00edmav\u00e9, z bl\u00edzka pon\u011bkud tristn\u00ed. Je to opravdu star\u00fd kostel, ale dnes asi nejsou pen\u00edze na t\u00e9 spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 hrom\u00e1dce. Prost\u011b je neudr\u017eovan\u00fd. Vevnit\u0159 u\u017e to bylo p\u0159eci jen o n\u011bco lep\u0161\u00ed. Fotografov\u00e1n\u00ed zak\u00e1z\u00e1no, ale to na Jirku neplat\u00ed \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

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A krom\u011b p\u00e1r turist\u016f byly v kostele i m\u00edstn\u00ed rusk\u00e9 d\u011bti. Rusov\u00e9 tady p\u0159edstavuj\u00ed relativn\u011b silnou komunitu.<\/p>\n

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N\u00e1\u0161 \u0159idi\u010d Karat n\u00e1s cht\u011bl ale zav\u00e9st k dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed rarit\u011b. Je to velmi star\u00e1 me\u0161ita, kter\u00e1 je \u00fadajn\u011b postavena bez jedin\u00e9ho h\u0159eb\u00edku.<\/p>\n

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Me\u0161ita je zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed ve stylu \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 pagody. Stav\u011bli ji na p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edho ch\u00e1na Ujgurov\u00e9 z nedalek\u00e9 \u010c\u00edny. Vtipn\u00e1 historka \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee jako odm\u011bnu m\u011bli stavitel\u00e9 dostat t\u0159i \u017eoky opia. No, docela dobr\u00e1 cena, ne? Jen\u017ee m\u00edstn\u00ed Kyrgyzov\u00e9 jsou vykut\u00e1lenci a tak se p\u0159i placen\u00ed n\u011bjak p\u0159epo\u010d\u00edtali a stavitel\u00e9 dostali \u017eoky dva. Co\u017e o to, to se konec konc\u016f stav\u00e1 i dnes u n\u00e1s.<\/p>\n

Jen\u017ee \u010c\u00ed\u0148ani nebyli zas takov\u00ed blbci a mo\u017en\u00e1 s t\u00edm trochu po\u010d\u00edtali. Tak\u017ee do t\u00e9to unik\u00e1tn\u00ed stavby nedali posledn\u00ed kol\u00edk a po jejich odjezdu se me\u0161ita za\u010dala pomali\u010dku rozpadat. M\u00edstn\u00ed rychle pochopili a vyslali za stavebn\u00edky posly s prosbou o odpu\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed. V\u0161e se vy\u0159e\u0161ilo a za \u017eok opia byl posledn\u00ed kol\u00ed\u010dek zasunut tam kam pat\u0159\u00ed. Kdo, kde a jak se pak zhulil, to u\u017e legenda ne\u0159\u00edk\u00e1 \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

A me\u0161ita stoj\u00ed dodnes.<\/p>\n

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V me\u0161it\u011b jsme fotit mohli a s velk\u00fdm uspokojen\u00edm jsme vyu\u017eili m\u00edstn\u011b p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00e9 WC. P\u011bkn\u00e9, \u010dist\u00e9. To je to pozitivn\u00ed na Isl\u00e1mu. U ka\u017ed\u00e9 me\u0161ity mus\u00edte m\u00edt p\u0159ed motlitbou mo\u017enost se o\u010distit.<\/p>\n

Za sov\u011btsk\u00e9 doby se pokusili ud\u011blat z me\u0161ity sklad obil\u00ed. V\u0161echno se\u017eraly krysy. Ust\u00e1jili tam dobytek m\u00edstn\u00edho sovchozu a ten za\u010dal ch\u0159adnout. Hned po zm\u011bn\u011b re\u017eimu dostali v\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00ed sv\u00e9 staky zp\u011bt. Pravoslavn\u00fd ch\u0159adne, me\u0161ita vzkv\u00e9t\u00e1 a dokonce u\u017e byla postavena me\u0161ita dal\u0161\u00ed, nov\u00e1, velk\u00e1 v centru m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n

Mysl\u00edm jsem se u\u017e zmi\u0148oval o tom, \u017ee do Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu te\u010dou pom\u011brn\u011b velk\u00e9 investice do staveb me\u0161it ze Saudsk\u00e9 Ar\u00e1bie.<\/p>\n

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V centru naraz\u00edte na mnoho star\u00fdch, mnohdy docela upraven\u00fdch budov. Je to d\u016fkaz star\u00e9ho rusk\u00e9ho os\u00eddlen\u00ed. V muzeu jsem pro v\u00e1s fotografoval informace o dolov\u00e1n\u00ed zlata na nedalek\u00e9m lo\u017eisku Kumtur.<\/p>\n

Ale to, pro\u010d jsme se do tohoto t\u0159et\u00edho nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edho m\u011bsta Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu vypravili bylo a\u017e za m\u011bstem.<\/p>\n

Muzeum P\u0159evalsk\u00e9ho. Toho P\u0159evalsk\u00e9ho po n\u011bm\u017e je pojmenov\u00e1n posledn\u00ed divok\u00fd k\u016f\u0148, objeven\u00fd a \u017eij\u00edc\u00ed ve step\u00edch Mongolska. Toho kon\u011b, kter\u00e9ho P\u0159evalsk\u00fd na sv\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch po Asii objevil a popsal.<\/p>\n

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Nikolaj Pr\u017eevalskij (p\u0159esn\u00fd p\u0159epis jm\u00e9na), geograf a cestovatel, kter\u00fd zem\u0159el pr\u00e1v\u011b zde p\u0159i p\u0159\u00edprav\u011b sv\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed (mysl\u00edm \u010dtvrt\u00e9) expedice. Cht\u011bl do Lhasy, tam ale nikdy nedo\u0161el. Na jeho po\u010dest bylo m\u011bsto v dob\u011b socialistick\u00e9 pojmenov\u00e1no na Pr\u017eevalsk, ale po osamostnatn\u011bn\u00ed Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu se jm\u00e9no m\u011bsta vr\u00e1tilo zp\u011bt na Karakol.<\/p>\n

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Po vstupu do muzea, samoz\u0159ejm\u011b po uhrazen\u00ed mal\u00e9ho poplatku, v\u00e1s p\u0159iv\u00edt\u00e1 velk\u00e1 n\u00e1st\u011bnn\u00e1, keramick\u00e1 mapa z cest. N\u00f3 \u0159eknu v\u00e1m, to n\u00e1m toho je\u0161t\u011b dost chyb\u00ed.<\/p>\n

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Co ti ho\u0161i kdysi dok\u00e1zali je a\u017e neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e9. V\u0161echny z\u00e1pisky ru\u010dn\u011b. Fotografie v\u00fdjme\u010dn\u011b, vet\u0161inou ru\u010dn\u00ed kresby. A nov\u00e9 druhy zv\u011b\u0159e? Ulovit a vycpat.<\/p>\n

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A takto vypadala cestovn\u00ed zpr\u00e1va, „at\u010djot“.<\/p>\n

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Na konci parku na tich\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b, na m\u00edst\u011b, kde \u00fadajn\u011b zem\u0159el je mal\u00fd n\u00e1hrobn\u00ed k\u00e1men se jm\u00e9nem P\u0159evalsk\u00e9ho a rokem, kdy na tyfus zem\u0159el. M\u00edstn\u00ed tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee to bylo proto, proto\u017ee zabil a vycpal posv\u00e1tn\u00e9ho drav\u00e9ho pt\u00e1ka Berkuta. Orla.<\/p>\n

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Od n\u00e1hrobn\u00edho kamene je vid\u011bt na p\u0159\u00edstav. Opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstav, kter\u00fd kdysi umo\u017enil p\u0159ekl\u00e1dku zbo\u017e\u00ed, uhl\u00ed a transport d\u00e1l na z\u00e1pad. Karakol je toti\u017e na samotn\u00e9m v\u00fdchodn\u00edm kraji jezera.<\/p>\n

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A co je\u0161t\u011b?<\/p>\n

\u0160A\u0160LIK!<\/p>\n

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Neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fd ber\u00e1n\u010d\u00ed \u0161a\u0161lik. Jestli budete v Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu dejte si \u0161a\u0161lik z ber\u00e1nka. To maso je \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e9 ne\u017e zn\u00e1me od n\u00e1s nebo t\u0159eba z Nov\u00e9ho Z\u00e9landu, kter\u00e9 se tak\u00e9 k n\u00e1m voz\u00ed. Ta jmenovan\u00e1 masa nejsou \u0161patn\u00e1, ale tohle v Kyrgyzst\u00e1nu a jedli jsme velmi podobn\u00e9 v Kazachst\u00e1nu, tak to jsou m\u0148ami \u0161a\u0161liky. K tomu m\u00edstn\u00ed chleba a fakt nebylo co \u0159e\u0161it.<\/p>\n

Jeli jsme zp\u011bt cca 50 km do na\u0161eho t\u00e1bora u jezera.<\/p>\n

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Kolem turistick\u00e9ho info centra na kraji m\u011bsta. Jen nev\u00edm pro\u010d ECO.<\/p>\n

A taky jsme se museli prodrat \u0161a\u0161likem na \u017eivo.<\/p>\n

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No a je\u0161t\u011b BONUS.<\/p>\n

Kousek od Karakolu je horsk\u00e9 ly\u017ea\u0159sk\u00e9 st\u0159edisko. Nedalo mi to a d\u00edval jsem se na cenov\u00e9 relace.<\/p>\n

-letenka tam a zp\u011bt cca 8 tis. (Do Bi\u0161keku, potom autem za cca tis\u00edcovku no a zp\u011bt taky)<\/p>\n

-ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed cca 1 tis. osoba\/noc se sn\u00eddan\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Asi by bylo nutn\u00e9 si na m\u00edst\u011b p\u016fj\u010dit ly\u017ee a nev\u00edm kolik stoj\u00ed permanentka. Lanovka je seda\u010dkov\u00e1, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 kabinka. P\u0159edpokl\u00e1d\u00e1m, \u017ee to nebude dra\u017e\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e u n\u00e1s. Sp\u00ed\u0161e naopak. A kdy si zali\u017eujete ve 3 tis. metrech. Nav\u00edc je nedaleko n\u011bkolik p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch term\u00e1ln\u00edch pramen\u016f a to m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt docela hust\u00fd, ne? Nebudou to sice italsk\u00e9 Alpy, ale kdo chce za\u017e\u00edt n\u011bco jin\u00e9ho a neboj\u00ed se, tak do toho.<\/p>\n

R\u00e1d porad\u00edm \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

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Kouk\u00e1m na kalend\u00e1\u0159. Rok 2017 je pomalu u konce. I d\u00e1rky u\u017e jsou rozdan\u00e9. I cukrov\u00ed pomalu sn\u011bzen\u00e9. U\u017e se chyst\u00e1me na chleb\u00ed\u010dky, jednohubky a \u0161amp\u00edko. Zase rok za n\u00e1mi a st\u00e1le je co pozn\u00e1vat.<\/p>\n

Tak a\u0165 se v\u00e1m vypln\u00ed v\u0161echna p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed, cestovatelsk\u00e9 sny a hlavn\u011b. C\u00edle je t\u0159eba stanovovat vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed a vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed ne? A dr\u017eme si palce \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

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Dlouho jsme se nesly\u0161eli, dlouho jsme se nevid\u011bli. P\u0159\u00e1tel\u00e9 na konci tohoto roku chci je\u0161t\u011b vzpomenout na n\u00e1\u0161 posledn\u00ed v\u00fdlet z t\u00e1bora u jezera Issyk Kul do nedalek\u00e9ho m\u011bsta Karakol. Asi by to nebylo nic zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho, kdyby to nebyl ten Karakol, kter\u00fd na b\u0159ehu jezera vznikl jako obchodn\u00ed osada na Hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 stezce. Ano star\u00e1 obchodn\u00ed …
Pokra\u010dovat ve\u00a0\u010dten\u00ed Vzpom\u00ednka na KARAKOL<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2037,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2014","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-9"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2014","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2014"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2014\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2038,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2014\/revisions\/2038"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2037"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2014"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2014"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ipp.name\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2014"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}